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In the middle of the 3 chains, insert your hook and pull a loop through. With new color, dc across (sorry about the color quality of this picture): And here’s a picture of the whole thing: With new color, hdc across. Some people prefer to do just 1 stitch around the hdc stitches, but you can experiment and see what works best for you (some people find that just using 1 stitch can make the border too tight or that 2 can make it too loose, depending on the gauge etc.). Start by chaining 3: Slip your hook into the first of the 3 chains: Yarn over and pull through the 2 loops: Without skipping any stitches, make 6 more sc stitches in the row below. Continue making picots every 6 stitches until you come to the end.Then in the bottom chain, insert your hook and pull another loop through. Here’s a pic: You get a bit of a spoiler if you can make out the top row. With 2 new colors, work the Catharine wheel pattern. In the case of the star stitch, I placed 3 sc on top of it: When you reach the beginning of your border, slip stitch to close the round, ch1, and begin row 2. Tie off and weave in your ends, and you’re done: If the edges of your blanket are too uneven for your taste, feel free to wash and block your blanket according to your particular yarn label. At this point my blanket is so large that I couldn’t get a good photo square on, but you can see all of the rows there. w=640" class="aligncenter wp-image-2618" src="https://notyouraveragecrochet.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/cal114.jpg? w=640&h=640" alt="cal114" width="640" height="640" srcset="https://notyouraveragecrochet.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/cal114640w, https://notyouraveragecrochet.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/cal114.jpg? w=150&h=150 150w, https://notyouraveragecrochet.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/cal114.jpg? w=300&h=300 300w" sizes="(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px" / And folded up: I would like to arrange a permanent page on this blog as a photo gallery with pictures of everyone’s finished blankets.I’m crocheting over my yarn tails here so I don’t have to weave them in later. We’re going to do 3 rows of 1 color, so I’d recommend starting this row with a color of yarn you have a lot of. I’m using my lavender color for this: Do not change colors. You can space your bobbles however you like, but I’m personally putting 9 hdc stitches in between each bobble. ” Now it’s time to decrease again, only this time we’re going to pull up loops from the next stitches, not 2; yarn over and pull through to finish the st: In next st, make a hdc (the start of another “mountain”)… If you wish to pin her picture on Pinterest, please go here and do it from her page so that she can get the credit that she deserves. Here’s what the first few stitches look like: Keep crocheting into the spaces between the stitches of the previous row until the end. The bobbles will be a different color, so pick one that goes with your current working yarn. Bring up a loop in the second stitch as well: Yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook: That counts as our first stitch. Continue this way, making the mountains and decreasing, until the end. Here’s the past few rows: Repeat the mirrored chevron pattern. Ch 1, sc 1 in same st: Ch3, make the same “cluster” of 7 dcs as in row 9, ch 3, sc in top of shell. Fasten off (if you are done with your blanket) and weave in your ends! I tried to evenly space the bobble rows from each other, hoping that evenly spaced big bands of color would tie the whole thing together nicely. If you would like to follow a specific pattern, I’d recommend going back, working row 8, and continuing from there. That should keep the bobble rows evenly spaced and will also keep your right and wrong sides correct.Continue until end: Leave the last sc incomplete, as per usual, to change to the next color: Back to regular tension. If you do make a different border, I would recommend that your first row around your blanket be a sc row because that will help give your edges some stability.This row is a regular dc row the hdcs of the previous row. With new color, work hdcs in the spaces between the hdcs of row 80. I’m much relieved to say that she is OK with it all, because I did have some pangs of guilt there at the end.

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ch 3 and turn with new color: Now we’re going to work into the chains we just made. Here is a closeup of the past few rows: With new color, hdc across. When it’s a hdc, make 2 border sc around that stitch. When it’s a treble, make 3 stitches around the treble stitch.Make 1 dc in the top of the turning chains of the row below: Change colors. YOU CAN DO THIS BY GOING UP A HOOK SIZE FOR THIS BIT IF YOU PREFER.With new color, ch1; sc in same st: Skip 3 sts, 7 dc in next st: Skip 3 sts, sc in next st. Continue this shell pattern to end, leaving the last sc unfinished so as to change colors: Remember to keep your stitches loose!Since crocheting into the spaces shifted us over slightly, we’ll have to make what seems like an extra stitch at the end: If you count, however (which you should do now), you should have the same number of stitches as your very first row of the blanket. With 2 new colors (or 3 if you prefer), make another section of granny stripes. If you want to space your bobbles like mine, here’s what to do. Leave last stitch unfinished: Finish the stitch with your bobble color. With new color, hdc across: With new color, dc across Change to a color you have a lot of. It’s essentially my way of making sc decreases without just skipping a stitch entirely, as some books and patterns recommend. It should look like this: At the end of the row, you should just have 2 stitches left to work into for your last decrease instead of 3. When we do granny stripes we also want the first row to be on the right side, and we must do an odd number of granny stripes or we won’t have the same number of stitches across (weird, I know, but the even granny stripe rows just don’t have the same number of stitches). Crocheting over the working yarn of your background color, make 1 dc in next st, but do not pull the last loop through: Make 3 more unfinished dc stitches in the same stitch. We’ll do the same as we did in the beginning and pull up loops from the 2 stitches, preparing the decrease: With your next color, finish the decrease of row 31.

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